A Shout Out

to my good friend Wonder Tape, by Dritz! So I may be a little over enthusiastic lately, but it seems like this little miracle stuff has so many uses. I want to give credit when credit is due. I feel great sewing sometimes has more to do with the tools. This is one of those tools that can help take your sewing to the next level.

I have been speeding up production on so many projects, because of this little sticky stuff. Often times, I need to  slow down and re-do something, because it didn’t line up or slipped out of position while sewing. But now I don’t have to 🙂 and I can still be a little perfectionist and a little bit overachiever, without compromising quality or taking forever on any single step.

So here are a few of my favorite uses for this brilliant sticky stuff. Cut, peel, and stick:

• Seam intersections (such as underarm/sides, crotch, and any other 4 way points you want to be perfect). I am a fanatic about these (I know, it’s definitely not a healthy obsession).
• The start of a seam when serging. Have you ever started serging a seam, and Oh Crap! one piece of fabric slips and and then they are no longer even at the upper edges? That throws everything off, right? Well, use a  tiny piece of wonder tape to keep them together and get serging!
• Pocket placement (especially knits and matching patterns perfectly)
• Matching stripes  or other patterns in the fabric , like for side seams <——seriously this! I’m embarrassed now to admit how long  I have spent doing this without WT.  Hours literally, because I obsess and have an unhealthy need for things to be perfect. Even more embarrassing is how I have been seen picking out a seam and re-sewing if not exact.
• Neck bindings if your knit is too curly and very unruly. Use WT to hold it down and make it behave 🙂
• Hold seam allowances down I use this to prevent the seam allowance from being pushed by the presser foot. It keeps them where you want them to be.
• sewing  pants for so many of the steps, such as belt loops
• Zippers–so helpful with many types of zippers
• Hold size tags in place, especially when sewing with twin needle–keeps them straight, in addition to making sure they get sewn into the waistband or neckline binding

I suppose there are loads more uses, but this is the list I could come up with right now (and I need to get back to costume sewing –tomorrow is Halloween). If you have a favorite use for wonder tape, please do tell! Sharing is caring 🙂

Oh, wonder tape, we love you. (or at least very strong like)

~Erin

PS if you have not tried this stuff, please do. Now. Oh and I am no way affiliated with Dritz.  and Unfortunately, I am not being paid to promote.

Jeans Part Two and Three Quarters: Sew part 1 and part 2 together, before doing part 3

This is part 2 3/4, as part 3 will come next 🙂 Part 2 3/4 is where you will need to sew parts 1 and 2 together, in order to add part 3 later. Makes perfect sense, huh?

For the complete jeans sew along:

part 1 here

part 2 here

This was also against the Ottobre pattern instructions, but from examining my daughter’s Levi’s, it was perfectly clear how they are constructed, and let’s face it, the whole idea is to have them look store bought, not made by your mommy. Although, mom’s pretty much rockin’ the corduroy jeans.

Remember: heavy duty needle and special top stitching thread for top stitching 🙂

Put the front and back of pants right sides together and pin the inseam together. Sew from one lower edge, over crotch (there’s that nasty word again–sorry I tried not to use it for a while, but I had no choice), to the other lower edge. Finish raw edges. This pic looks so abstract, but trust me this is the picture of the inseam sewn and raw edges finished 🙂

Press seam allowances toward the FRONT. Most garments want you to press toward the back, but jeans have this seam pressed toward the front, so  that’s what I did. Top stitch the inseam. Easier said than done. Go slow and smooth it out as you go and it’ll be fine.

Now place the pants right sides together and pin the side seams. Sew side seams and finish raw edges. Press side seam along the waist/hip area toward back. Top stitch the side with a single row of stitching and  stop just below the end of  front pocket, as shown. You may want to lightly pound the thick intersections where it’s really bulky with a light duty hammer. This makes sewing over them easier with your machine. When you reach these really bulky sections,  you can also place a piece of fabric or jean a ma jig (not sure if that’s what that plastic thing is called) just behind it and under the presser foot, it helps to keep your machine moving and keeps stitches from skipping.  Handy pic:

Okay, well here you have it. Part 2  and 3/4, and now parts 1 and 2 can be added to part 3: the waistband.

~Erin

Making Jeans: Part 2–the back side

Here is where I again venture away from the pattern directions. I find the back side fun to sew up, but it would not be much fun if it didn’t look good, so I do things a bit differently. For the back side, a must is grabbing yourself some of that wonder tape, by Dritz. Oh, and that hammer is going to come in handy, as well. Double check your needle and make sure it is a heavy weight needle, designed for denim fabric 🙂

You can find Part 1 here 🙂 of this jeans sew along.

First sew the pant legs to the upper back pieces. Make sure you sew the longer side of upper back pieces to the center backs of the pant leg pieces. Pin and sew right sides together. If you are using a stretch corduroy, as I am,  make sure the nap is going the same direction, or they will look a slightly different color when finished.

Serge or finish raw edge of seam allowances. Press seam allowances down away from waist. (this can be done to your preference–I have seen store bought jeans with the seam allowances pressed up toward waist) Top stitch 2 rows along this seam, having one row of stitches close to fold. I use a twin needle, but it gets tricky with that many layers. You may need to increase the upper tension slightly. Practice on the same amount of layers of fabric scraps.

I prefer to add the pockets now. The pattern instructed me to do them before, but I didn’t listen. I want them to be centered and placed in alignment with the top stitching I just did. So I waited. If you are really naughty, you can add them after doing the center back seam.

For the back pockets (an important design element to this project), I have done them several ways before decided which methods work. Against my better judgment, I even used a glue stick on one pocket (never again).

One method that I really like is to cut out a  card stock pocket, trace your pocket shape pattern piece without seam allowances. Only one and place it on the pocket piece, on the wrong side of fabric. (spraying the fabric with starch helps loads) Fold the seam allowances onto the the card stock and press. Remove the card stock, add that fabulous wonder tape to the seam allowances and press them in place.

You can see on my card stock, I also included seam allowances, so I could make sure it was centered properly. Best Press is great for pressing seam allowances in place. It’s usually available at quilt shops.

The other pocket construction method that I like very much is to sew basting stitches along the pocket, on sides, and lower edges, right where you will be folding and pressing. The stitches help you to fold accurately, pressing those stitches right on the fold. You must sew your basting stitches accurately for this method to work well. I like this method a lot 🙂 Let me know if anyone would like a pocket photo tutorial and I’ll make one. The pictures for this did not come out clear enough to include. Sorry.

For both methods, you’ll need to finish the upper raw edge of the pocket.  With the upper edge folded down, according to its seam allowance, and right sides together, sew the sides of just the folded upper edge. Clip corner and turn right side out and press in place; continue pressing sides to match the folded part. Sew upper edge closed.

Fold and press you preferred method, and place wonder tape to hold the seam allowances there. If you look closely, you can see my basting stitches along the fold lines of my pocket.

At this point, I check to see how close the pockets are to being exactly the same. Any adjustments could be made before sewing the pockets onto the jeans.

Here is also where I ignored the pattern (I know it’s bad to do–well not really). I had made my markings of where the pockets ought to go, but I didn’t use them. They weren’t looking so good to me when I placed them along the markings.  Instead I grabbed a pair that she likes (those faithful Levi Strauss) and I measured the distance of the pockets from the center back, and the distance from each upper  corner to the angled top stitching. Using the handy wonder tape, I stuck them in place. Double checked that both pockets were symmetrical and stitched them in place. Using the special top stitching thread, of course.

You can add some bar tacks at the upper corners, using regular thread.

Now sew your center back seam. Make sure raw edges are perfectly together or you will mess up your symmetry of pocket placement. Make sure you keep where the upper back pieces intersect together. Use that wonder tape to hold them together. I focused on the top stitching being together, when doing this seam.

Finish raw edges and press toward one side. Okay here is where you need that hammer. To sew top stitching over that extremely bulky section along the center back, first pound it with a hammer (not very hard and just a few times will do). I use a dish towel to protect the fabric when I hammer that bulkiness.

Carefully top stitch center back. Oh, and make sure you are using a heavy duty needle if you weren’t already: a 16 or 18 depending on your fabric.

The 2nd part of the 3 part construction method is done. Some cool jeans are well on their way 🙂

~Erin

Jeans: a 3 part construction, Part One

Well, they’re corduroy jeans, actually. Day one of a sewing skinny jeans tutorial (or sew along?). I’m using an Ottobre pattern and stretch corduroy. It is an overwhelming idea, as with most unfamiliar things. Pattern and fabric are the first to conquer.  Finding a good pattern is crucial if you want them to be wearable. I hate, hate, hate sewing up something for hours only to have it not fit well. Grrrr.

So do your research. If possible, try to find online posts or sewing reviews about different patterns you’re considering. There are websites dedicated to sewing that have loads of reviews: Sewingmamas and PatternReview  Though I didn’t find much on the one I was sewing–oh well.

Next thing to do to check sizing is to compare the pattern to a pair of jeans that fit well. I measured the width in several places of my daughter’s Levi’s jeans and picked the size that matched it best. I then graded any area that was off, either tracing narrower or wider to match her existing jeans. I wanted to come as close to the Levi’s as possible.

Having traced my pattern and pre-washed my fabric, I cut out my pattern pieces. If using denim, pre-wash at least twice, more if you have time. This will soften the fabric and get all the sizing out of that tough fabric. I like working with a medium weight denim. The heavy weight ones are too stiff and the thinner ones don’t feel like jeans to me.

After cutting out pattern, add any stabilizers/interfacing, and transfer all markings, such as back pocket placement and stitching lines that will help you later.

Time to get sewing! First some supplies you’ll want to have:

• A store bought pair of jeans handy, so you can see how they go together while making your jeans (it’s very helpful imo)
• Hammer and dish cloth
• Jeans needle: at least a 14 or 16 weight needle, depending on your fabric.
• Top stitching thread: I used Gutermann. Coats and Clark make some as well. They also come in different colors. Use this thread whenever you are top stitching in this tutorial, except when specifically told not to.
• If you have a zigzag machine, AND it is capable of doing a very wide zigzag stitch, then you can use the extra wide twin needle.
• Wonder Tape: this stuff will be your best friend and tremendously helpful in this specific project.
• Dritz EZ-Hem or cardstock if you don’t have the ez-hem
• iron/ironing board
• seam ripper 🙂
• fabric marking tool (which you should have already used)

I think that’s it, but I reserve the right to come back and edit in any tool I forgot to mention.

Okay, onto the jeans… I followed the Ottobre directions generally, but didn’t when they weren’t consistent with the Levi’s. Cuz the whole plan hinges on having them look store bought. The way I see it, jeans are made in a certain order, with specific details, and very well known details, such as top stitching details. You construct 3 parts first, then put all the parts together to make the whole. Hence the 3 part construction title.

You’ll be sewing up the front, then sew up the back, sew those two together, then make a waistband and put all three together.

Today we’ll work on the front, which has the infamous fly zip with shield.

Step one: front hip pockets

Pin the pocket linings to the front leg pieces, right sides together, and raw edges even.

Sew and clip corners. Press seam allowances toward facing with hot iron. Understitch facing: sew a row of straight stitches as close to the fold as possible, sewing through all layers, except the front leg piece.

Turn lining to inside, so that wrong sides are facing.  Top stitch pocket opening’s edge. I used a twin needle, but you can use a single needle and sew two rows also.

Step 2:

Place the pocket “piece” on top of the pocket lining, right sides facing and pin all around the bottom and inside side.

Sew and finish raw edges. Smooth out pocket–make sure pocket is flat and has no folds. Pin upper edge and side edge, as shown. Sew  a basting stitch on both sides and upper edges that you pinned to keep the pockets in place.

After looking over a bunch of online tutes and the Ottobre picture directions (although it had very few pics and few words, it did help), I came up with a system that completely worked  the first time out–it’s kind of a hodge podge of ideas that I gathered from a bunch of different sources. I was so prepared to call on the seam ripper and re-do it at least once, but didn’t need to (I may have just gotten lucky).

Step 3: the zip fly, complete with shield

Here are our pieces: One side will need to be cut. I trimmed the right side, keeping a 3/8 inch seam allowance. Your pattern should have both fold line and cutting line marked for the narrower side. If not, I would estimate–you need about 3/8 inch in from where them curve begins and some for seam allowance.

You’ll need the shield– I cut mine a little longer, and a zipper- I used a metal jeans zipper. The shield can also be rounded instead of coming to sharp point as mine. I used the Ottobre pattern.

Fold shield in half length wise, right sides together. Sew bottom edge (the angled edge).  Clip corner. Turn right side out, press and finish raw edge on the long side.

Place you zipper onto shield, right side of zipper will be facing up, and lined up with the longer, now serged, edge. You want it along the longest part of the shield, and the bottom stop at least 5/8 inch up from the point, as shown. Hand baste in place. You could also use that magical wonder tape, but I always hand baste my zippers in place. I used both today. Both eliminate the need for pins, which is ideal for zippers, because you can sew a much straighter seam without pins. Pins make things go wonky, and need to be removed before going under the presser foot. I use a contrasting thread to make basting stitches, which  is easier to pick out after the zipper’s in.

On pant front pieces: finish the raw edges with a traditional sewing machine, using either a zigzag stitch or overcast stitch.

Place front pieces right sides together, matching the raw edges up. Pin the lower crotch (yikes! another word that just doesn’t sound very nice–why is that?) and sew together, just past the fly flap. Some patterns will have a dot marking, which gives you a point to sew to and stop on. Mine didn’t 😦 But it’s easy enough to figure that out. Clip to the stitching line, follow the curve of the fly flap.

Fold and press shorter side toward inside. Remember to not fold so that it is lined up with crotch seam. It’s over about 1/4 inch or so. This fold line should be marked on the pattern sheet. Here some visual aids:

Place zipper and shield on front piece along the narrow side that you just ironed, making sure the lower zipper stop is above crotch seam and zipper teeth are 1/8 inch away from fold like, as shown below. Wonder Tape helps a lot! Hand baste in place.

and yeah, I know my fly shield was too long, but that will get cut off later.

Here what it will look like from the back (I folded the pant legs up and out of the way, so it was more clear.

Using a zipper foot, sew zipper in place 1/8 inch from folded edge, sewing through all layers: front pants, zipper, and fly shield.

Okay half way there, and the hardest part is over. Can you start to see how it’s all coming together?

Now place you jeans on your work table, right side facing up. Smooth it out and work carefully with this next step, so your zip fly looks good and not crooked.

Place some wonder tape along the unsewn side of the zipper, and press down to keep it in place while you do the next steps. The idea here is to keep it from shifting as you move the fabric around to get at where you need to sew next.

Carefully pick up the left front pant leg and move it onto the left side, exposing the fly flap and zipper.  Hand baste zipper to flap, but not the shield and not the front pant piece.

pin and baste in place, remember to not stitch through the shield underneath. Sew just the zipper placket and zipper together.

Un-zip zipper and sew in place, keeping shield pinned out of the way. The jeans zipper is so bulky that I sewed this side  in two steps. I zipped it up about 1 1/2 inches, and sewed the lowest part. Remove it from the machine, un-zipped it the rest of the way and sewed it the rest of the way.  And of course, here are some pics to help explain.

Smooth sailing now…Place the pants with the right side facing up again. Adjust and smooth out ypants. Draw a stitching line for your fly flap. I like to measure and make sure everything is even and straight, so I made no exception here.

Pin flap in place, keeping shield out of the way. I pinned it to the side again, to keep it free of the needle while sewing. If you sew through the shield, you will have sewn your pants shut and not be able to undo your pants to put them on. Top stitch the fly from upper edge to the top of the bend or where it begins to curve, sewing through the front pant piece and zipper, but not the shield.

Since I can’t back stitch with the twin needle, I pull the top threads to the under side and tie them together in a knot and secure them that way. For the curve, you may need to use a single needle, not a twin.

Before you sew the curve top stitching, place a pin to the side of where the zipper stop is. do not want to sew the stop, ouch. It would hurt your needle and machine. At this point, you will sewing the shield in place. So move the shield under the flap and once it’s in its place, pin it there. In the pic below, the black pin shows me where my zipper stop is. I want to sew at least 3/8 inch below that. The red pin is holding my zipper shield in place, so that I sew it in place, as it should be.

Once your curve is sewn, make two bar tacks as shown.  Use regular thread to do your bar tacks, otherwise you’ll have a hot mess of thread on the under side. Your jeans zipper fly in so done!

Step 4–one last step before we move on to the second piece of this 3 part (or 3 piece) construction method. With a hot iron, press the seam allowance of the front crotch toward the left side (the flap side). Top stitch the front crotch.

The hardest part of the jeans project is over. Yay! Here’s what mine  look like (the zipper is unzipped, so it is not looking as nice–I should change that photo), and I am happy with them 🙂 I think the key to sewing jeans may be this: take your time, do each step carefully and slowly, paying attention to all those little details.

I’d love to hear what you think so far… did I skip something? Is something not as clear as it could be? Let me know. I want to make this as complete as possible.

Part 2 is here

Thanks!

~Erin